Home Forums General Technical Help 105e panel question

  • This topic has 5 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated by Ken B.
Viewing 6 posts - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #12575
    tipi182
    Participant

      Hi all, i am new to the 105e owners club and were pleased to recieve my member card and anglebox mag last week. I bought myself a 1965 105e last week with the intention of restoring it over time, i have found that the drivers side steel wing is holed by the door hinge and wonderd if i would be better buying the repair panel or to just buy a fibreglass wing, any advice please. Also i noticed at the back of the wing there is another panel which needs replacing where the door hinge bolts on to, is this what they call the flitch panel?
      Thanks in advance for your help
      Chris

      #24121
      Ken B
      Moderator
        Club Member

        ACS 61/62 is the flitch panel.
        AEC 90/91 wing repair panel

        ACS 69/70 is the door post or A post cover skin.

        Both drawings blatently stolen from another well known company who’s panels are very similar to ours…..

        oh and my opinion, keep it all steel. When/if you come to sell it, will add ££££. Not everyone likes g/f stuff.

        #24122
        tipi182
        Participant

          thanks for your quick reply, with the wing repair section are they a nightmare to fit and do you normally but the repair section to the wing for welding or do you over lap it?

          #24123
          Ken B
          Moderator
            Club Member

            All wing panels are a nightmare to get the gaps right as you constantly have to refit the door to check alignment, take door off re adjust refit door and so on, check with bonnet alignment and so on. Its no easier in my opinion with glass fibre as they’re thicker, the A post needs modification to suit other wise they stick out and catch the door when fitted. On my van I joddled the joint when i used a wing repair section, A) partly to reduce distortion and B) I think it makes a better stronger joint than butt welding. The only thing I did, was to make sure that the joints were fully painted and fully undersealed and facing away on the inside away from the water spray from wheels, as this way you are creating a water trap. 4 years on, and I have no sign of water ingress/rust, so this method worked for me.

            #24124
            coolcardon
            Participant

              Ken: You sure got a sharp eye on being able to locate items as well as addressing very hard questions….all in a flash, I might add. When I read this request and your answer my first thought was, “Wow, this diagram is a keeper, for future reference. What a find.”. Just wanted to say thanks.

              Don

              #24125
              Ken B
              Moderator
                Club Member

                Thank you and no worries Don. I do try my best!!

                Just to add to my other post, the joddle was made on the existing wing, the repair section I then drilled a series of holes where it over laps, and then puddle/plug welded starting at the top, then alternating to the bottom back to top and so on to avoid heat build up.
                Sorry I dont have any photos I dont think.

              Viewing 6 posts - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)
              • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.