March 13, 2013 at 2:35 pm #13979
Any advice on revival of a standard heater? It works in the summer in a traffic jam, but delivers cool air on a frosty night. Once the water was treated with Radweld, which stopped the main radiator leeking but reduced its efficency!.but since then the main radiator replaced, The heater matrix has never leaked. Else where on this forum it is posted connect the hoses ” top to bottom ” agreeing with Handybook 99- Anglia Owners book, but the sketch in the Haynes manual seems to show ” top to top / bottom to bottom”.March 13, 2013 at 5:57 pm #29567
Do the hoses get hot? The hose connection on the cylinder head is also a stop tap and if closed, hot water won’t flow. There is a scribed line in the square which should be vertical. Check there first.March 13, 2013 at 7:55 pm #29572March 14, 2013 at 1:26 pm #29576
Andrew, mine a 67′ DeLuxe and it has a tap on the Cylider head just behind the Carb!!!March 14, 2013 at 10:12 pm #29578
AFAIK they had taps until the end. I had a 67 original untouched model with one.March 15, 2013 at 6:12 pm #29587
Mine doesn’t have one, Aug 67,I know this because not long after I had it one of the heater hoses started leaking,’ easy temporary fix’ I thought, ‘just shut off the tap’, but no! Never been messed with. Sure I read somewhere these were omitted, along with other ‘improvements’ such as no diff drain plug and no underbonnet weather strip. I even have a late radiator with no drain plug.
I’m sure I didn’t imagine it but I’ll look into it again, I’m not always right :D , maybe they just ran out on mine!
AndrewMarch 15, 2013 at 6:51 pm #29588
Even if you’re right, Andrew – and I don’t rule out the possibility(!) – heads and complete engines might well have been replaced after 46 years!
And by the way, closing the tap would not have fixed the water leak; the water would have found its way to it going the long way around via the heater matrix!March 15, 2013 at 7:50 pm #29589
Yeah realised that afterwards, might’ve slowed it down a bit enough to get me home though? Engine in mine definitely not messed about with or replaced.
Still trying to find where I read about the heater tap, maybe mine’s a one-off :D
Anyway, more detective work to do, anyone else got a late Anglia with no tap?
(Just read this back, getting a bit sad now isn’t it?)March 16, 2013 at 3:58 pm #29594
No Tap ( probably as factory registered 1968) & no tap either on my spare head from a D reg car, both 1200cc, … Water & pipes hot… I’m thinking.. need to flush the heater matrix &/or get new seals for the heater flaps. … any advice…?
P.S, if heater hoses fail away from home u can cut out the damaged bit & connect shortened pipes together with a sparkplug & jubilee clips, missing out the heater.March 16, 2013 at 10:06 pm #29597
Are your heater hoses on the right way around.
The one on the head goes to the bottom of the heater and the one on the water pump goes to the top of the heater.March 16, 2013 at 11:44 pm #29600
Cheers Brian, relieved it’s not just me! Just to confuse things, my old ’66 had a tap!
I had a radiator blind on my car, helped it warm up quicker, I also replaced the flap seals with draught excluder, but in my experience, Anglia heaters are never exactly foot-burners whatever you do!
(cheers for the tip, would’ve meant limping home on three cylinders though! I thought the tap (where fitted) was to meant to stop water going through the heater, otherwise what’s the point of it?).December 11, 2021 at 2:32 pm #80028
8 years later, where has the time gone ! … Back then I improved it the heater a bit then, by rinsing it through. Now I wonder if I can improve it more.
My heater appears to be a full flow manifold with most of the water just going straight back to the engine & the water only goes into the matrix tubes by convection. Is that normal or have I lost a baffle in that manifold? Thus back flushing through only cleans the manifold not the tubes .
I wonder what chemicals I could use to soak it & unclog the matrix tubes?December 12, 2021 at 8:29 am #80030
That isn’t – or shouldn’t be – how it works. The tank at the end with the inlet / outlet pipes should be separated internally so that the water can get from the inlet to the outlet only via the matrix. If it can bypass that and get directly from one to the other within the tank, that’s what it would do whether or not the matrix was blocked, so you effectively wouldn’t have a heater.
I have heard of people using caustic soda to clean cooling systems, but there are H&S issues, and I suspect it might have an adverse effect on the alloy parts of the system, e.g. water pump and thermostat housing. I don’t know how easy its is to remove from a 105E (it’s a pig on a 107E!) but I think you’ll finish up doing that and flow testing it.December 12, 2021 at 12:48 pm #80031
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