I assume that the arrangement is similar to that on the 100E, in that there is what’s called a captive nut at the back, i.e. one that is crimped to the panel so it cannot turn. In practice, the bolts often rust to the captive nut, usually causing it to ‘escape’ and turn with the bolt. Methods of recapturing it vary with circumstances, but include attempts to weld the nut’s face to the panel facing you, and cutting out and welding in a new plate with a nut welded to the rear of it. The 100E ones are accessible from the back so a normal nut on a longer bolt is possible; I don’t know if this option is available on a 105E. This, by the way, is why I always remove all external bolts and smear the threads with copper grease.
By the way, I think you meant 5/16″ UNF for the thread size.
Thanks for the advice JAN,
copper grease a good tip. A much much longer bolt would be possible, but have to go through the box section & squeeze it.
Yes 5/16 UNF is what i meant :-)
.. In case others have the problem … I succeeded in tapping a 3/8 UNF thread . The hole in the bumper iron is already big enough, & the captive nut ( can’t see what’s in there) in the box section was held securely enough to with stand the drilling & tapping process.
( also discovered UNF is also called NF, despite the similar original NF being replaced in 1948)
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