Slave Cylinder Removal and rear crankshaft seal

[VisuvesiAnglia]

trying to get the slave cylinder off the gearbox.

removed the circlip and tryed tapping it with a hammer, tried twisting it buy no joy.

is there a black art to removing it or do I just need a bigger hammer?

Also how do I go about changing the crankshaft seal at the rear of the engine, behind the flywheel as I have a rather nasty leak?

[JAN]

The alloy cylinder reacts with the cast bellhousing causing it to seize. I’d suggest using a proper penetrating oil (not WD40) and allowing, say, a day for it to work. Freeing is then a matter of twisting and hammering until it works free.

The rear main seal is a rope type on the pre-crossflow engine and requires the sump’s removal and change of sump gasket too. Although it is possible to do this without removal of the engine, it is very awkward and the confined space makes mistakes more likely, resulting in further leaks. But I’d check that the sump bolts are all tight before doing anything else, and that the breathers are clear.

[VisuvesiAnglia]

Many thanks for the speedy reply

I had a feeling that was the case on the cylinder. would a little heat be of any help as the slave cylinder is going to be rebuilt or replaced anyway

Its not a big job to get the engine out (compared to some other cars I have owned) and as I need to take the gearbox out to do the clutch and some other bits ill drop them both out. Its always so much easier to work on something in front of you than above your head.

[JAN]

@VisuvesiAnglia wrote:

Would a little heat be of any help?

Possibly, but you need to be careful heating cast iron, and even more so with alloy. Could work, though!

[VisuvesiAnglia]

@JAN wrote:

@VisuvesiAnglia wrote:

Would a little heat be of any help?

Possibly, but you need to be careful heating cast iron, and even more so with alloy. Could work, though!

OK I think ill leave it then lol… just oil and a much bigger hammer :D

[Author]

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