March 14, 2020 at 6:42 pm #73312
Have a 67 997cc est, bog standard except for electronic ignition. Always start her once a fortnight and run her for 10 -20 miles monthly. last couple of times she has had a flat battery, but not so that she doesnt initialy turn over. She has started when using the 240 plug in “Ring” starters/battery charger, however today when the battery was flat the “Ring” starter kept tripping out and failed to get her turning over and going.
Thinking the “Ring”starter was faulty I fixed some jumpleads from my 04 Fiesta and she turned over straight away and fired up and ticked over perfectly for 5 mins.Happy that all was well jumped in her put her into first and she just died like switching off a switch with battery almost dead flat. re connected jump leads from Fiesta and she cranked over normally but absolutley refused to fire or start. I did notice the fuel gauge being eratic just prior?? In the six years ive owned her never experienced anything like this infact she normally run perfectly.
Any help welcome please.March 14, 2020 at 7:38 pm #73321
20 miles a month might not be enough to keep the battery charged & maybe it flooded in the stall?. Does it still not start now ? If mains electricity is available keeping the battery connected to a changer with “float Mode” which after charging,holds the battery voltage up is a good option, it maintains the battery fully charged, without damaging it. It seems to me cheap batteries these days are not as good as batteries years ago. Built weaker as modern cars start easier. I have had 2 halfords batteries fail at the 3 year mark, The first just under 3, & qualified for Halford’s ” Replace only if you argue long and hard” warrantee. The 2nd just after.
The voltage regulator beside the dynamo can give high voltage, especially if its earth connection is rusty, which can shorten the battery life too. There is a 2nd voltage regulator behind the dash for the temp & fuel gauge, which is independent of the battery dynamo starting & ignition, so not sure… .March 14, 2020 at 7:42 pm #73322
or .. if the battery fails Open Circuit, could the regulator voltage rise enough to blow up the electronic ignition ?March 14, 2020 at 7:50 pm #73323
With the car off, does the flat battery charge at the normal is it 3 amps from the charger.. ? if not the battery might be open circuit .. high reistance .. Does cranking it from the jump leads, do you get any spark ?March 15, 2020 at 10:02 am #73343
will get back in the garage to run through what you have highlighted.
Also will check if regulators are available through owners club should this be required.March 15, 2020 at 4:55 pm #73350
If no spark , wires to the electronic ignition unit are also worth checking ..especially in the dissy, where they flex with vacuum advance.March 26, 2020 at 8:48 am #73646
Why don’t you use a battery conditioner? Good for cars that are laid up:- https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F163942497184March 29, 2020 at 10:23 pm #73765
Ok so fitted new battery today and car turned over fine but wont fire, have checked and no spark at plug.
can anyone recommend a good quality replacement electronic ignition kit please?March 30, 2020 at 9:42 am #73775
The regulator that sits behind dash is it reasonably accessable?
ThanksMarch 31, 2020 at 8:34 pm #73834
For electronic ignition I’d go for Pertronix, I wouldn’t use anything else.April 1, 2020 at 6:28 am #73844
I’ve been using Accuspark. Comes with everything including a reconditioned distributer, coil, cap, rotor and leads. Even spark plugs. Fits straight inApril 1, 2020 at 11:03 am #73853
It was PowerSpark from SimonBCC that I fitted on fomoco motorcraft dizzy in 2016 , that changed the timing dramatically, causing misalightment with the rotor arm & cap. With the wider rotor arm, it has worked OK since. I think they may have redesigned the mounting plate since too . If I bought again I would take JAN/member2617 advice .
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