It is impossible to over emphasise the importance of correct lubrication, inspection and running adjustments, if you wish to obtain the best level of service from your Ford Anglia and Ford Prefect. Every 5000 miles (8000 km) or twice yearly, whichever occurs first, a more comprehensive service should be carried out.
The 5000 Mile service also incorporates:
- Check the Engine Oil Level
- Check the Radiator Level
- Check the Petrol Level in the Tank
- Check the Windscreen is Clean
- Check the Battery Electrolyte Level
- Check the Brake and Clutch Fluid Reservoir Levels
- Check the Operation of all Lights
- Check the Tyre Pressures
- Check the Gearbox Oil Level
- Check the Rear Axle Oil Level
- Check the Steering Box Oil Level
- Check the Fan Belt Adjustment
- Check the Clutch Adjustment at Operating Cylinder
- Check the Windscreen Washer Level (where fitted)
- Check the Seat Belts for Security and Wear (where fitted)
- Lubricate all Grease Gun Points
- Lubricate all Linkages and Locks
- Lubricate the Distributor
- Clean the Oil Filler Cap
- Change the Engine Oil
- Change the Engine Oil Filter
- Change the Gearbox Oil
- Change the Rear Axle Oil
- Lubricate Generator Rear Bearing
- Top up Front Suspension Units
- Top up Rear Shock Absorbers (where applicable)
- Front Suspension Strut Tops
- Check the Rear Spring “U” Bolts
- Clean the Air Cleaner
- Clean the Fuel Pump
- Clean and Adjust Contact Breaker Points (if necessary)
- Clean and Adjust Sparking Plugs
- Clean the Distributor Cap
- Check and Adjust Ignition
- Varying Ignition Settings for Different Fuels
- Carburettor Adjustment
- Check and Adjust Valve Clearances (if necessary)
- Clean Repack and Adjust Front Wheel Bearings
- Reposition the Road Wheels (if necessary)
- Check and Adjust the Front Brakes
- Check and Adjust the Rear Brakes
- Check the Brake Lines
Clean the Oil Filler Cap
The oil filler cap also acts as an engine ventilator and it is advisable to remove any accumulation of foreign matter from the gauze, when changing the engine oil.To clean the dry gauze type cap it is only necessary to wash this in petrol or paraffin and then dip in engine oil, shaking out the surplus. Although a small job, this is quite important as Ford engines do breathe quite heavily.
Change the Engine Oil
This service item covers both this item and the next item, which is to drain the oil and change the oil filter element. Check the oil with the dipstick. If the oil on the dipstick appears dirty for any reason before this mileage is reached, the engine should be refilled with clean new oil and the filter element replaced.Place a suitable container under the sump drain plug. Do not overlook the fact that there may be up to 4 ½ pints of oil in the sump, so use a drain pan of sufficient size to hold this quantity of oil. Remove the sump drain plug. The engine oil will drain out more easily when warm and, at the same time, will tend to remove any foreign matter present in the sump.When all of the oil has been drained away, replace the drain plug. A good quality flushing oil may be used in the engine, but in NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD PARAFFIN BE USED TO FLUSH OUT THE CRANKCASE.
Replace the oil filter element (as detailed below). Pour the appropriate quantity of correct grade oil in through the filler neck, run the engine for a short while, allow to stand, and then check the oil level on the dipstick, topping up as required.
Warning – Do not pour old oil down the sink or into any water drain. Place it in an old container and dispose of it at your local Council Oil Recycling Centre.
Change the Engine Oil Filter Element
The oil filter is fitted direct onto the cylinder block, no connecting pipes to the engine being required. To change the element, first drain the oil (as above) and undo the hexagon headed bolt retaining the filter unit to the cylinder block, and withdraw the filter assembly. Withdraw the filter element from the casing and replace it with the new element.A new rubber sealing ring is supplied with each element. Remove the existing ring, then locate the new ring in the groove at four diametrically opposite points. Do not fit the gasket at one point and then work it round the groove, as the rubber may stretch, thus leaving a surplus, which could cause an oil leak.Refit the filter assembly to the cylinder block and retighten the bolt.
Change the Gearbox Oil – (at first 5000 Miles only)
Preferably drain the gearbox when the car has just completed a long run and the oil is warm. Place a suitable container under the gearbox drain plug and remove the drain plug at the bottom of the housing. Replace the plug securely after draining the oil. Remove the filler plug and refill the gearbox with Extreme Pressure gear oil of the correct grade until it reaches the level of the filler plug hole.
Change the Rear Axle Oil
On earlier cars, a drain plug is fitted in the centre of the axle housing at the bottom. It is no longer necessary to drain the lubricant at any service, but it is advisable to check the tightness of the drain plug when checking the oil level. For those with earlier cars, the oil may be drained every 5000 miles if so desired. Preferably drain the rear axle when the car has just completed a long run and the oil is warm. Place a suitable container under the rear axle drain plug and remove the drain plug. The warm oil will drain more easily then, bringing with it any sediment or foreign matter. Replace the plug securely after draining the oil.Remove the filler plug and refill the axle housing with the correct grade of hypoid gear oil until it reaches the level of the filer plug hole located half way down the axle housing at the rear. Replace the filler plug securely when the axle has been filled.
Lubricate Generator Rear Bearing
The front bearing of the generator is packed with lubricant on assembly and should require no attention. The life of the front bearing can be adversely affected by incorrect fan belt adjustment.The rear bearing is lubricated by injecting a few drops of engine oil through the open hole in the centre of the rear end plate.
Top up Front Suspension Units
The car should be parked, unladen standing on level ground.
NOTE – This is most important
Remove the combined filler and level plug located in the body of the suspension unit, approximately 3 in below the coil spring lower seat, at the front or rear of the unit, and add shock absorber fluid, Part No M-100502-E, until it reaches the bottom of the plug hole.
Replace the plug and tighten securely.
NOTE – On no account should the fluid be added to the suspension units under pressure.
Top up Rear Shock Absorbers (Anglia)
Remove the filler plug located as shown opposite and top up the shock absorbers, if necessary, to the level of the filler plug orifice. The design of the top of the shock absorber allows for normal expansion of the fluid when it warms up during use.Use only correct fluid Part No M-100502-E, which may be obtained through your Authorised Ford Dealer.
Grease or engine oil should never be added to the shock absorbers. Do not lubricate the shock absorber links – these are rubber bushed and designed to operate without lubrication.
Top up Rear Shock Absorbers (Prefect)
The rear shock absorbers are filled and sealed during manufacture, and require no further maintenance.
Front Suspension Strut Tops
Although not specifically mentioned in the Ford handbooks, it is a good idea to put grease into the bearing at the top of the front suspension strut every 5,000 miles. Prise off the polythene cover, and pack with a medium grease of the same grade as used for the suspension nipples
Check the Rear Spring “U” Bolts
Inspect the rear spring “U” Bolt nuts and tighten if found necessary. Check to ensure that all accessible bolts and nuts are correctly tightened.
Tightening torque 20 to 25 lb/ft (2.76 to 3.46 kg/m).Brush any loose material off the rear springs, which may then be sprayed or brushed with a penetrating oil for lubrication purposes.
Clean the Air Cleaner
This is fitted on the top of the carburettor and can be of two types. This can be either a dry gauze type or an oil bath type and normally requires servicing every 5000 miles (8000 km). Should you be operating your vehicle in a heavily dust-laden atmosphere, more frequent servicing to the air cleaner is recommended. The effect of allowing the internal filter element to become choked with duct etc, will be to restrict the air supply, in turn enriching the mixture. Failure to clean this filter element properly at the correct time can adversely affect performance and fuel economy.
Oil Bath Type Air Cleaner
To clean, remove the air cleaner, unscrew the wing nut on the top cover and lift off the cover and the cleaner element. Empty the oil and thoroughly clean the body. Wash the air cleaner element in petrol to remove the dust and dirt, and refill the air cleaner body with fresh engine oil up to the level of the arrow stamped on the side. Check that the cork gaskets are in good condition, refit the element and the cover. Refit the air cleaner to the carburettor.
Dry Gauze Type Air Cleaner
To clean, remove the air cleaner by slackening the clamp securing it to the carburettor. Pour a small amount of petrol into the cleaner via a larger diameter aperture (where the carburettor connection hose is fitted), swill round and pour out of the “spout”. This procedure should always be adopted, otherwise the tendency will be to wash the dirt in the cleaner further into the gauze. The element should be lightly oiled, adopting the same procedure, any surplus oil being allowed to drain off. Refit the air cleaner to the carburettor.
Paper Element Type Air Cleaner
This is very similar to the wet type of air cleaner, but instead of having a gauze element it has a special paper one. This paper element must not be washed or oiled. Stand the element vertically and tap it on a firm flat surface while slowly rotating it. Check the element for tears in the paper or signs that it is so clogged that the tapping treatment will not clear it. Renew the element if it is defective.
Clean the Fuel Pump (Anglia)
This is mounted on the right hand side of the cylinder block, is entirely automatic in action and can be one of two types. One type had a domed metal cover and the other an inverted glass sediment bowl.
Domed Cover Type
To service the domed cover type, remove the screw from the top of the pump and detach the cover and filter screen. Clean any sediment from the pump body. Clean the screen in petrol and replace it on the fuel pump body with the reinforcement upwards. Check the gaskets to ensure that they are in good condition and will make an airtight joint. Renew the gaskets if necessary. Refit the domed lid and tighten the screw.
Glass Sediment Bowl Type
To service the glass sediment bowl type pump, slacken the clamp nut at the top of the pump and remove he bowl and filter screen. Clean any sediment from the pump body. Clean the screen in petrol and replace it on the fuel pump body with the reinforcement upwards. Check the gasket to ensure that it is in good condition and will make an airtight joint. Renew the gasket if necessary. Replace the glass sediment bowl and tighten the clamp nut.
Clean the Fuel Pump (Prefect)
A fuel filter in the form of a glass sediment bulb and filter screen is incorporated in the fuel pump, and can be cleaned as follows:-Turn off the tap in the inlet fuel pipe line by rotating the head of the tap clockwise, then pushing it down.Remove the clamp nut from the top of the pump and detach the bulb and filter screen. Clean any sediment from the pump body. Clean the screen in petrol and replace it on the fuel pump body with the reinforcement upwards.
Check the gasket to ensure that it is in good condition and will make an airtight joint. Renew the gasket if necessary. Replace the glass sediment bulb and tighten the clamp nut. Pull up on the fuel tap to re-establish the fuel supply from the tank, and turn the head of the tap anti-clockwise to lock it in position. Check that there are no fuel leaks.
Clean and Adjust Contact Breaker Points
Check the contact breaker points gap with a feeler gauge, and adjust to compensate for wear on the breaker arm, which is sometimes indicated by misfiring at low speeds. The contact breaker points should be set so that when the fibre arm of the moving contact is on the highest point of the cam, there is a gap of 0.014 in to 0.016 in
This gap can be adjusted by slackening off the locking screw on the fixed contact point and moving the contact point until the gap is within the above limits. The fixed contact point can be moved by inserting a screwdriver in the recess provided and twisting slightly.
Tighten the lock screw securely and recheck the gap, as it may have altered slightly when tightening up the screw.If the contact points are worn, pitted or badly burned, they should be dressed flat with an oilstone (or replaced).
Badly burned points are often an indication of a faulty condenser or oil on the points.
Clean and Adjust Sparking Plugs
Remove a sparking plug. Clean the insulator body of the plug with a clean dry cloth. Using an appropriate tool, clean the end of the spark plug to remove any deposits. Check the plug gap with a feeler gauge. The plug gaps should be set at 0.023 in to 0.28 in (0.59 to 0.71 mm). If after checking the gaps with a feeler gauge, it is found that adjustment is necessary, the outer point should be either bent forward or away from the centre electrode, to increase or decrease the sparking plug gap. Refit the sparking plug.
NOTE – Do not bend the centre electrode.
Clean the Distributor Cap
Use a soft clean cloth to wipe any dirt or oil off the HT leads, the rotor arm and distributor cap (both inside and out). Once the distributor cap is clean, examine it for wear, cracks, tracking or a worn our carbon bush. If any of these faults are found fit a new cap.
Check and Adjust Ignition Timing (if necessary)
Ignition timing can be checked, and corrected if necessary, by your Authorised Ford Dealer. The modern equipment he carries for this purpose enables him to do this work very quickly and accurately. Remember that if the distributor has been removed from the vehicle for any reason, it is essential that it is refitted in its original position.However, if circumstances prevent you having the ignition timing checked by a Dealer, then proceed in the following manner:-
Remove No 1 cylinder spark plug, partially cover the orifice with the thumb, and rotate the engine until No 1 piston is on compression stroke. You will feel the air pressure on your thumb increase as the piston rises on compression stroke, and stop rotating the engine when the “notch” on the rim of the crankshaft pulley and the pointer on the timing chain cover are in line.
Before refitting the distributor to the engine, hold the body so that the vacuum control spindle is parallel to the engine and set the rotor metal contact in line with the low tension terminal.Now refit the distributor, when it will be observed that the rotor arm rotates towards the condenser as the helical gears engage.Secure the body clamp to the block, by means of the screw and lock washer. Check that the advance adjustment nut is such that the manual adjustment scale is at the zero setting, i.e. set the knurled nut to the fourth line on the graduated scale.
Rotate the distributor in a clockwise direction to take up any backlash in the drive, until the contact breaker points are just about to open and lock the distributor body clamp by tightening the nut and bolts. To check that the distributor has been correctly re-fitted, when replacing the cap, ascertain that the rotor arm is facing No 1 cylinder contact in the cap.
Varying Ignition Settings for Different Fuels
By rotating the knurled distributor advance adjustment nut it is possible to turn the contact breaker base plate slightly, so either advancing or retarding the ignition.It is often advantageous however, to obtain the optimum ignition setting taking into account the characteristics of a particular engine and the brand of fuel in use by means of the road test procedure.An additional check and to obtain the best results from any particular brand of fuel, the car should be tested on the open road (when fully “run in”).
Carefully note, by stop watch, the time taken to accelerate from 30 mph to 50 mph in top gear with the throttle fully open. The optimum ignition setting is that which gives the shortest possible time to accelerate.
It must be remembered however, that only small deviations from the normal setting outlined above are necessary to effect this compensation. Do not carry out indiscriminate adjustments.
A premium grade of fuel muse be used in engines fitted with the standard cylinder head. Normal grade fuel used with the optional low compression head requires no alteration to ignition timing.
The only adjustments required are to the volume control screw and the slow running adjustment screw.
Idling adjustment must be carried out when the engine is hot as follow:-
- Screw in the slow running adjustment screw until the idling speed is a little faster than normal
- Unscrew the volume control screw until the engine begins to “hunt”
- Screw the volume control screw in again until the engine runs evenly. If the engine speed is then too high, unscrew the slow running screw until a reasonably slow idling speed is obtained. This may cause a slight resumption of “hunting”.
If so screw in the volume control screw until the idling is perfect.
Note that the volume control screw alters the volume of mixture passing into the engine. Screwing it in reduces the volume of mixture and screwing it out increases the volume.
It may also be necessary to make an alteration to the distributor timing, in order to obtain satisfactory idling.
Do not expect a new engine to idle perfectly at low speeds until various machined surfaces have had a chance to “run themselves in”.
Check the Valve Clearances and Adjust (if necessary)
Open the bonnet and listen to the engine carefully. If there is a clattering sound from the top of the engine, and the sound increases both in loudness and noise as the engine speed is increased, then it is best to check and adjust the valve clearances. Each cylinder has a pair of valves; one inlet and one exhaust, and each valve is operated by its rocker arm.
To check or adjust the valve clearances, remove the valve rocker cover by undoing the four retaining screws. Be careful not to damage the rocker cover gasket. The valve clearance adjusting screws will then be exposed, and the clearance should be adjusted to 0.010 in (0.254 mm) for the inlet valves and 0.017 in (0.432 mm) for the exhaust valves, with the engine at normal operating temperature.
In order to ensure that each valve is fully closed, check as follows:-
|Valves Open||Valves to Adjust|
|1 and 6||3 and 8|
|2 and 4||5 and 7|
|3 and 8||1 and 6|
|5 and 7||2 and 4|
|Exhaust Valves Nos 1, 4, 5, and 8||Inlet Valves Nos 2, 3, 6 and 7|
To adjust a rocker, slacken off the adjusting screw locknut and insert a feeler blade between the toe of the rocker and the valve end. Turn the adjusting screw until the correct clearance has been obtained and tighten the locknut. Recheck the gap after tightening the locknut to make sure it hasn’t moved.When replacing the rocker cover ensure that the gasket is correctly positioned on the cylinder head to avoid oil leaks.
Clean Repack and Adjust Front Wheel Bearings
Jack up the car and remove the hub cap (described in the section General Maintenance – Wheels and Tyres), Remove the dust cap by carefully levering it from the end of the hub.Withdraw the spilt pin, unscrew the bearing adjusting nut; remove the thrust washer and the taper roller bearing. Lift off the drum and wheel assembly.Clean all the old grease from these components and repack with good quality wheel bearing grease. The grease should be worked carefully into the rollers and cages of the inner and outer bearings. The hub itself should not be packed completely full but an appreciable air space should be left.
Replace the hub and bearing on the spindle followed by the flat washer and castellated nut.
Tighten the bearing adjusting nut to 30lb ft (4.1 kg m) whilst rotating the wheel, and then slacken off the nut back not less than two castellations and not more than two and a half castellations. If you do not own a torque wrench, rotate the wheel whilst tightening up the bearing adjusting nut until a heavy drag can be felt, then turn the nut back one castellation at a time until the wheel is perfectly free from just perceptible end float. This is best tested at the periphery of the wheel.Fit a new split pin; two holes are drilled in the wheel spindle to allow adjustment to one-twelfth of a turn. Carefully clean and replace the dust hub cap, and then lower the vehicle to the ground, check the wheel nuts and replace the hub cap.
Never run the car with the dust caps missing since this would allow an easy entry for grit and other road dirt.
Reposition the Road Wheels (if necessary)
It is recommended that the wheels are changed around from time to time to equalise tyre wear as follows:
- Spare to left front
- left front to left rear
- left rear to right front
- right front to right rear
- right rear to spare wheel compartment.
If no spare is available, the tyres should be repositioned by moving the rear wheels to the front and putting the right front wheel on the left rear hub and the left front wheel on the right rear hub.
Adjusting the Front Brakes
Before making a brake adjustment, ensure that all four tyres are inflated to the correct pressure.In order to test the brakes, select a good stretch of road surface, preferably dry and uncambered. If the braking action is unequal, or the pedal movement is excessive, the brakes should be adjusted. Your Authorised Ford Dealer can make this adjustment quickly, correctly and economically. If such service is not readily available, the brakes may be adjusted for lining wear as follows (it is advisable to test the front wheel bearings and adjust if necessary)
Check that the hand brake is in the fully released position and that the brake drums are cold. There are two square headed adjusters on each front brake plate to enable each shoe to be adjusted individually.
Jack up the front wheels, turn the adjuster of one shoe clockwise (using hand pressure) until the drum is locked, then slacken back to obtain minimum running clearance.
Repeat this procedure on the second adjuster, also on the other front brake.
Adjusting the Rear Brakes
On each rear brake, a threaded square headed adjuster is fitted diametrically opposite the expander unit. Do not disturb the plain square headed adjuster positioned on the backplate, your Authorised Ford Dealer should make this adjustment when it becomes necessary. Jack up the rear wheels, turn the threaded adjuster clockwise until the drum is locked, then slacken back to obtain minimum running clearance. Similarly adjust the other rear brake.
Do not jeopardise your safety by makeshift replacements or adjustments.
It is also of extreme importance that the linings are kept free from grease and oil. The use of correct front wheel bearing lubricant and care not to overfill the rear axle, as well as replacing grease retainers when leakage is indicated, will prove particularly valuable in maintaining braking efficiency.
Check the Brake Lines
Check the brake flexible hoses for signs of perishing or chafing. Check the metal brake lines for corrosion, dents or leaks. If any defect is found, take your vehicle to your Authorised Ford Dealer for repair as soon as possible.
Warning – The Health and Safety bit
Please note your health may be at risk if you do not take sensible safety precautions. Never work under an unsupported vehicle, do not take shortcuts. If you feel that the task is beyond your capabilities, then employ the services of a trained professional. The Ford Anglia 105E Owners Club nor the author cannot be held responsible for any accidents or injury arising from advice given on this webpage. Safety advice can be obtained from the RoSPA. The advice and opinions given are purely those of the author and not necessarily those of the Ford Anglia 105E Owners Club.