(from the “Vanman”)
Club member Steve Speck has sent in this little tip, about how he renewed his frayed choke cable. This is something I’m sure we’ve all come across before, trying to get that frayed end into the choke cable clamp. Sometimes I’ve seen them cut back so many times they barely reach the carburettor.
Steve used a bicycle brake cable available from any reputable bike spares shop.
Unfortunately most of the photos came out poorly (although one of those which came out OK is shown below – used to illustrate the components) but the approach I ended up taking was fairly straightforward. It is probably worth mentioning that this won’t give a result which a purist would be happy with but saves money and can be re-done if necessary at a future time. Shortening the shaft on the pull does not affect the operation of the choke.
- Remove the choke assembly by taking out the choke pull and cable from the dashboard. Make sure that it is disconnected from the carburetor first.
- With the assembly out of the car and with the metal shaft ideally in a bench vice
– locate the three crimps at the end of the shaft.
- Using a good hacksaw start to cut carefully just below the lowest of the three crimps until you get to the cable (don’t saw through the cable).
- Work around the circumference of the shaft at the same distance from the end sawing through to the cable (again, don’t saw through the cable).
- This should give you a section of the shaft which is now separated from the rest of the assembly but is still attached by the cable.
- Pulling on the cable should leave you with the cable removed and the remaining hole which received the cable originally.
- If you’re fussy [as I am], square off the end with a grinding wheel or file.
- Setting the assembly vertically in the vice with the hole at the top, use a 1.5mm drill bit to extend the hole into the shaft. Use your judgement as to how far this needs to go.
- Place your new cable as far into the hole as it will go.
- Clean the end of the shaft and the cable with wire wool.
- Warm up and ‘tin’ your soldering iron. Gently heat the shaft and cable either with the iron or using a light going over with a blow torch – being careful not to heat it too much, melting the plastic pull.
- Apply solder around the base of the cable. If you heat from underneath, the solder should be drawn into the hole. This may take a few goes to get it right.
- This should give you a solid fixing.
Refitting is the reversal of step 1 above.
Advice as always from me, The “Vanman” or the other tech advisors, phone numbers in the Who’s Who at the front of the Club Magazine.
Article © Copyright 2009 – the “Vanman”
Warning – The Health and Safety bit
Please note your health may be at risk if you do not take sensible safety precautions. Never work under an unsupported vehicle, do not take shortcuts. If you feel that the task is beyond your capabilities, then employ the services of a trained professional. The Ford Anglia 105E Owners Club nor the author cannot be held responsible for any accidents or injury arising from advice given on this webpage. Safety advice can be obtained from the RoSPA. The advice and opinions given are purely those of the author and not necessarily those of the Ford Anglia 105E Owners Club.