Uprating Clutch

(from the “Vanman”)

The standard spring clutch fitted to the Anglia is quite adequate for its intended use. That is to propel a car weighing roughly 750kgs transferring roughly 48 bhp (1200cc) on a good day. So imagine how it feels when you hitch a caravan on the back or have an engine kicking out upwards of 90 bhp. It’s little wonder that it starts to complain a little. Uprated Cortina 1500 GT clutches are very thin on the ground these days. You could in theory change the springs in the Anglia Clutch cover to heavier duty ones, but where can you find them these days.There is an answer to all this, fit a modern diaphragm clutch as fitted to the Mk2 1600cc Crossflow Engined Cortina. It is fairly straight forward to do this, but there a couple of things that you need to be aware of before you can actually do the change.

The Diaphragm Clutch is the same diameter as the Anglia one so will directly fit on the flywheel but it is a slimmer unit, so the thrust bearing is in effect further away from the cover and cannot operate/release correctly.

The answer here is to use a special spaced release thrust bearing. This is spaced forward by the correct amount and so functions in the normal way.

Secondly the Diaphragm Clutch is a much stiffer unit to operate as it has to cope with higher engine output. Therefore when placed in to the Anglia, the clutch pedal becomes incredibly stiffer to operate. In fact you need an incredibly strong leg to hold the pedal down let alone operate in a safe manner.

The answer here was provided by Ford when it produced the Anglia’s cousin The Escort Mexico. They used a bigger bore Clutch Slave Cylinder which reverts the pedal pressure to about the same as an original standard Anglia. The best bit is, it fits in an Anglia bell housing.

Fitting of these components couldn’t be simpler. As the Mexico Slave cylinder fits on in exactly the same way as the original Anglia one. All the pipes / threads are compatible. It is important to note you should retain the original Anglia 5/8” bore clutch master cylinder.

The diaphragm clutch fits onto the flywheel in exactly the same way as the old sprung type. As for the special release / thrust bearing, you need to retain the original bearing carrier. Prise off the old thrust bearing, then simply slide and press the new spaced bearing unit on to the carrier, then refit to the clutch arm / fork.

It should be noted there are two types of clutch cover available for the x-flow. One has what is known as curly fingers, the other has straight fingers. Ideally you need to obtain the one with straight fingers.

Obtaining these parts is still relatively easy from certain suppliers. I will list these at the end of the article.

Below are photos of 2 out of the 3 main components we have just mentioned.

 Physically changing the clutch is more than mentioned in most of the manuals that are available from various sources for the 105E so it would be pointless covering all that here. However this moves us into the next part of the tech article. I promised to tell you how to put a 1200 / modified 2000E gearbox, into a car with the fixed x-member (997 bodyshell) without cutting the x-member out or taking the engine out?
Well here at last is the info you have all been waiting for ………….

Please note this trick works only with 1200 gearboxes and 2000E boxes that have been put into 1200 casings. The 2000E box in standard original form has a larger tailshaft section and may not go down the tunnel as easy.

It is so easy you will wonder why you never thought of it yourself. All you have to do is remove the gear lever housing on top of the gearbox first. Once you have done this cover the hole up with a bag, duck tape to stop the dirt entering box. By removing this it will allow the box to slide further up the gearbox tunnel above the fixed x-member towards the rear of car, so that you can then push the front of the box up and slide forward into the rear of the clutch assembly and onto the engine. Before you do up ANY other bolts, you must replace the gear lever housing and the associated bolts. It is a little fiddly to ensure the dangly piece on the housing is located into the selector rods, but you can then tighten the two forward most bolts through the gear lever hole in the tunnel, the two rearmost are easier done from underneath the car. If you have a diaphragm clutch, you may find it easier also to place the box into the tunnel WITHOUT the bellhousing, then refitting with the gasket and bolts just before you push it in fully home. Again this is a bit fiddly, but the smaller hole in the diaphragm clutch makes it a tad tighter for space than with a normal Anglia clutch. I find this is all feasible on your own. Taking engines in and out whilst easyish, doesn’t do much for the paintwork where removing and refitting the bonnet is concerned. There is also the draining of all the fluids etc etc.

Note: these pictures when taken were actually of removal but you get the drift …..

Note the diaphragm clutch boys and girls …………… and although you cannot see it, IT IS A 997cc bodyshell with fixed x-member.

As Mr Haynes frequently quotes: Re-assembly is the reversal of Steps 4 to 9.

As you may have noticed I’ve left out all the stages of jacking up, removing propshaft gearlever etc etc, as you all must know how to do that by now. If you don’t then you certainly shouldn’t be tackling this without the help of someone who does know or the associated reference manuals.

To get your Diaphragm clutch, Mexico slave cylinder and spaced thrust bearing try one of these places – Yellow Pages to find your nearest motor-factor, Burton Power, Rally Design, Milton Race preparation,
www.105speed.com – 105speed – 01234 826827

Advice as always from me, The “Vanman” or the other tech advisors, phone numbers in the Who’s Who at the front of the Club Magazine.

Article © Copyright 2009 – the “Vanman”