We now need to dismantle the 2000E box to the same point that we did for the 1200 box. Before proceeding, the opportunity to thoroughly clean the outside of the gearbox should be taken now to avoid any dirt getting to the internals The procedure to then dismantle the box is basically the same as carried out on the 1200, the only major difference being the gear change linkage set up. Firstly remove the gear lever (if fitted) by unscrewing the large dome. Then remove the three bolts securing the gear lever housing to the tailshaft. (See Photograph No 1)
Also remove the two other top covers, not forgetting any springs and ball bearings located under main housing cover. You can now undo all bolts and clamp bars and remove all the linkage to gear selectors.
Once you have removed all the linkage and selector rods, give the gears and all of their associated parts a thorough check over and satisfy yourself that this is a serviceable box. The gears themselves should have no teeth missing or chunks missing from them. They should also be free from heat marks and any wear should have not broken through the case hardening on the gears. If in doubt let a suitably qualified person take a look. It would also be a good opportunity to replace any bearings that need replacing. Complete dismantling is covered in the Haynes manual, but it can be a bit tricky and should really only be undertaken if you are confident, or can practice on a scrap gearbox first. Bearings are available for these boxes from various sources, BGH gears can now supply replacement gearsets, but for a price. Gasket sets for re-assembly are also available, and these should be used without fail. I prefer to use Fernox gasket sealer in addition to the new gaskets (From any reputable plumbing supplier), firstly it is a little easier to work with and secondly because it is clear in colour so looks a little tidier.To re-assembly then. In the front bearing cover (Photograph Nos 3 and 4), there is a small oil seal. So before removal, make a small tippex mark on box and cover so that this goes back on exactly how it came off. To get to this seal remove the three securing bolts.
It will now be possible to prise out the old seal and drift a new one carefully in (Photograph No 5 and 6).
I took the opportunity to change the front bearing, this is simply done by removing the large circlip, and prising the old bearing off with two screwdrivers, whilst ensuring that the shaft doesn’t drop out of the syncro rings/cones inside. It’s easier than it sounds.. honest!
Replace the bearing cover with a new gasket ensuring that the cover goes on exactly in the correct position, as per the marks you made earlier. The reason is the oil has to flow down the small cut out in cover into a hole in the gearbox casing.
As mentioned in the first part, the plastic speedo drive gear rarely remains in one piece on the 2000E boxes. On the box used in this article, there was no exception. (See Photograph No 9). My plan is to use the speedo drive wheel from the 1200 box. On a 2000E box it is held in place with a circlip, arrowed and also has a ball bearing underneath acting as a woodruff key. Once you have removed the circlip (don’t lose this you will need it), simply prise off the plastic gearwheel. This may take a bit of force, or carefully cut it off.
Ok this is where it does get a little tricky. Remember from the last article I mentioned that the later 2000E boxes had a thicker/wider rear bearing carrier, see picture 11. In this case my box was a later version. In order to get the tailshaft housing from the Anglia 1200 box to fit, you must change the rear carrier to the Anglia 1200 one. Do not attempt to force it on it will not go. So release the rear bearing circlip, and slide the whole bearing and carrier out. It should prise out with a couple of screwdrivers. Once again you must make sure the main shaft does not drop out of the cones and syncro rings inside. You should also note that the tailshaft gasket sits under the carrier also. So clean the gasket face up, replace the gasket, then slide the Anglia 1200 bearing carrier complete with new bearing if you are changing it, back into position. Note that there is a roll pin that locates into the tailshaft on the carrier so get this approximately into the correct position.
See Photograph No 12 with the roll pin arrowed. Then replace the circlip.
If you have an earlier 2000E box, some of this last section would have been irrelevant as the bearing carrier is the same as the Anglia 1200, but you can still follow it to change the bearing and gasket. The next bit involves replacing the speedo drive wheel.With the horrible plastic broken wheel resigned to the waste bin, I wanted to use the steel Anglia one. You have to do a small piece of modifying here to use it though.
Retrieve the metal Anglia speedo wheel and the metal spacer collar from the parts removed from the Anglia gearbox, not forgetting the tiny ball bearing which acts as a woodruff key. If you slide all this assembly on you will notice that you cannot refit the circlip as it is about 0.5/0.75mm out of position over the groove. All I did was to take the spacer collar and machine the correct amount off on a lathe. If you don’t have access to a lathe don’t worry you can carefully grind it off with a grinder. Only grind/machine off the bare minimum so that you can replace the circlip. This will all sit correctly and your speedo needle will not jump about all over the place now. See Photograph Nos 13 and 14.
Warning – Always remember to take care when using power tools, and to wear the appropriate Personal Protective Equipment, such as eye protection, ear protection and a facemask.
Next job is to replace to the oil seal in the end of the 1200 tailshaft. Fairly simple, just prise the old one out, the drift home the new one
Bolt the 1200 tailshaft onto the box. The gasket should have been replaced whilst the rear bearing carrier was out. Make sure that the correct bolts are used here as some protrude inside the casing, and if a bolt that is too long is used it will hit the gears inside.You now need to replace the blocker bars (there are two) back in the cross drilled holes in-between the three front selector rod holes. A piece of wire will probably be needed and a bit of patience to do this as it is quite fiddly. It is extremely important that these are put back in.
Next the selector forks need to replaced into approx position, see Photograph No 17. It’s fairly obvious where they go, but ensure they are sitting in their respective grooves
Now refit the 3 selector rods including any spacers and collars used in the original 1200 gearbox, arrowed in Photograph Nos 18 and 19
Don’t forget the middle rail has a tiny loose bar cross-drilled in the end. This must be present as it works in conjunction with the blocker bars and stops you accidentally trying to select two gears at once, see Photograph No 19.
Replace the square headed locking bolts not forgetting to use locking wire. I used stainless steel welding wire, see Photograph No 20
Replace the gear lever housing plate, then replace gear lever, Photograph No 21. Now is a good idea to test gear selection before going any further. Each gear should be tested for ease of selection, bearing in mind the detent ball bearings and springs are not in position. But you should be able to detect any faults or any parts you have missed out.
Once you are happy, you can replace the ball bearings for the spring detents, then place a blob of grease in each spring locating hole in top cover. This will hold the springs in place whilst you position top cover, with a new gasket and bolt into position, Photograph Nos 22 and 23
If you look closely in Photograph No 23 you will see a hole to the right side of the top cover. This is where the reversing light switch normally goes. Not all Bullet 2000E boxes have this, but mine did. If you don’t want to use this, then just use a very short bolt and seal it with gasket compound, ensure that the bolt does not reach the selector rod at the bottom of the hole. If like me you quite fancied the idea of reversing lights working from the gearbox then you will need to make the following modification BEFORE replacing the reverse gear selector rod. The reverse selector rod incidentally is the one on the right in picture 21, note that you can see it is in line with the reverse light switch hole.Photograph No 24 on the left shows the end of the 2000E box reverse gear selector rod. On the right of picture shows the Anglia one. As you have no choice but to use the Anglia rod you need to replicate the ramp and flat from the 2000E onto the Anglia one. I used a grinder, but if you have access to a milling machine then so much the better.
In Photograph No 25 my handiwork is the one on the left, not quite as neat but it does work.
Well that wraps this article up. I hope that if you attempt to do this you won’t encounter any problems. Always have a Haynes manual or similar to hand just in case you get stuck. Another handy tool to have is one of those extending magnets you know looks like a car radio ariel with a magnet on, as even I dropped a ball bearing in the bottom of the box during this article !!!
Please, please work safely at all times, and if you are not sure about something ASK.
Most of all don’t take shortcuts. If you have any queries about this article drop me a line.
Advice as always from me, The “Vanman” or the other tech advisors, phone numbers in the Who’s Who at the front of the Club Magazine.
Article © Copyright 2009 – the “Vanman”
Warning – The Health and Safety bit
Please note your health may be at risk if you do not take sensible safety precautions. Never work under an unsupported vehicle, do not take shortcuts. If you feel that the task is beyond your capabilities, then employ the services of a trained professional. The Ford Anglia 105E Owners Club nor the author cannot be held responsible for any accidents or injury arising from advice given on this webpage. Safety advice can be obtained from the RoSPA. The advice and opinions given are purely those of the author and not necessarily those of the Ford Anglia 105E Owners Club.